Well I took it to Batteries plus and the battery turned out perfect. 100% charge and 100% something else. He said my CCA is suppose to be 120 but performing at 180.

Now it did start up in the morning just fine and when I left batteries plus (and a fedex kinkos shortly before). But I drove about 10+ miles (in some traffic) to run to school and when I left there after being there for 10minutes it did it again. I got the light to come back on and I push started it off. I got back to my apartment and after I turned it off I tried to turn it on and it did it again. When I hit the ignition after it dies the neutral light comes on very faint while I have the ignition depressed.

Here is my original R/R compared to my new one...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2326/...9fc92f946c.jpg

and here it is wired up.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2170/...a3d6dcda_z.jpg

I'm going to find someone who knows how to use a ohmmeter because I have no clue how those bastards work. What should they check for when checking the R/R?

Appreciate the help guys

Easiest way to check out put is to check the output voltage to the battery while the bike is running....above 2500 rpm you should see somewhere between 13.5-14.2 vdc. If you are getting less than that you have a stator or RR issue.

Then you can check continuity of the stator or signal side of RR.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Make sure to check the stator output when it's hot.

Looks like the new rectum-frier was spliced/soldered rather than using plug connectors - but if plugs, check them for corrosion. Also - get that thing mounted properly so the sub-frame acts as a heat-sink (pref. w/ some dielectric grease on the back for thermal transfer). Even though it's bigger with fins, there's not much airflow there & will run much hotter if the heat has nowhere to 'drain' effectively.

Is it just me, or does the red wire in the pic look like the insulation has gotten hot & discolored?

Use a decent meter & run through the troubleshooting chart - also be aware that when either the stator or regulator goes bad, often the other will follow soon even if it tests fine. At that age, I'd consider replacing both if either tests bad & you have the budget.

We got looking through it and turns out hte problem is most likely the starter relay.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2190/...cf1a2162_z.jpg

On the right where you see th red plug is the starter relay. We woudln't have power on the cable going out to the starter even when we hit the ignition. We took it apart and checked everything we could. We put it back together and it works again without a problem so we're pretty sure it's the starter relay.

I have the fairings off the bike now so if it happens again I'm going to fuck with the relay to see if it starts back up. I'm also going to double check the battery ground when I can find it.

You know, I didn't even read your first post closely before replying about the charging system....

The immediate dead (not just turning over slowly) & occasionally coming back on definitely sounds like a flaky connection. Clean/scrape battery terminals & clean the frame ground (somewhere around where the main frame spars & subframe join). Also check the terminals/wires of the main fuse holder located on the starter relay holder. Good luck!

You beat me to it. Just make sure the relay is getting signal power when you thumb the starter button. Sometimes the contacts in the starter button itself can cause the problem. But I think you said your green neutral light dims when you push the starter button and the bike doesnt start. My money is on the relay for now.

Yeah, and to replace it is $95. Gonna check the ground and pray to the Honda gods that they spare me and allow me to tighten a bolt.

On my old CBR, all the electric problems are with ground corrosion. And I have a steel frame. Aluminum frames are just as bad or worse. I ground my ground wire from the R/R (green/black wire on my bike) directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Mine also has a wire (red/white) from the R/R to the starter relay, so if the R/R doesn't have a good ground, it may not crank.

Update. I finally got a new Starter Relay after I was sent the wrong starter relay.

Well I got it put in and nothing again. I was pissed. I finally took the positive terminal and placed it to the starter cable and it didn't budge it. I went to batteries plus and they ran the batter and said it was doing 9Vs (though it was doing 12 when I originally had the problem). Took it back and it started off!!!

The Flying Turd is back!!!

So was the relay bad or not?