RE: Jumpstarting from a car - You can use a car's battery to jump start a bike just fine. You want to ensure that the car is OFF, as the current spike from a running car's alternator going into recharge mode (i.e. high output) can have 'less than optimal results' for your bike.

RE: Batteries (In General) - If the battery is the "needs maintenance" type, have you checked to ensure that the water/electrolyte levels are up to the proper marks? A battery may have the voltage necessary to run some lights, but no where near the Amp-Hour (Ah) capacity to actually perform more than one start. Also most motocycle charging systems need the bike to be ridden at least 15-25 minutes to recover ONE "cold start". If you're taking several short trips less than that interval, you'll never fully recharge the battery. Repetitive discharging without recovery, and eventually you'll "kill" the battery's ability to hold enough charge to function. Its also not unusual for some bikes to need a new battery every 18-24 months (depending on their "off-state" current draw, external maintenance charging, etc.).

I'd first pull the battery and take it down to your local shop and have them check it. If you don't trust them, take the battery to a large auto repair shop. They likely have a battery tester that can be set in "powersports" mode that will test a battery that small (e.g. Pep Boys, NTB, etc.).

YMMV... :D

That sounds like loss connections. Check, clean. Other wise the battery may be done. Issues like this are most always either operator error by missing a safety feature. In other cases it is one of those components that is malfunction. :luck:

As said... it is fine to do with a car off but should not become a regular practice, the car batteries still have a much higher amperage than our little bike batteries.

Allow me to echo what others have said. First and foremost, check the battery. Always start there. Needs to show 12.8volts.

Go to Radio shack and get some contact and board cleaner. They sell a nice can that has a cleaner and lube in it. White can, red print. Cost about $7.

Now as said, check the clutch and kickstand switch. You can do this easily by pulling their harness plugs, using your multi meter (set to ohlms), and by activating the switch it should change from an open to close circuit. Then spray the switching mechanismn and the plug, allow a few mins for it to work in, then plug the switch back in. Do this to both safety switches.

Now when it comes time to check the starter relay, check for the voltage there when the start button is pressed.

Further, may want to check your solinoid connections. I'm not sure about your starter but many times there is a solenoid cover on the end of your starters. This is the mechanics of what happens when you push the start button. Its magnetic. It pulls the contacts into the plunger which draws the power from the battery and activates the starter itself.

Under the cover you will find something like this...
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/Day6053.jpg

before cleaning and corrosion at the arrows with emry cloth (like 150 grit)
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2358.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2359.jpg

Not done but you get the idea
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2362.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2361.jpg


Your cover may look something like this
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/DSC00589.jpg

idk mine did the same and I just bought a battery tender and charged her for like two days and she was good to go after that.


good luck

thanks again every one. havent had time to get the things i need yet, but will check everything that has been mentioned by you all. :twfix:

Don't over look the simple stuff: Make sure your batt cables are tight.

Truth...

I've seen alot of fucked up shit from just a loose negative terminal.

Yes and that means checking both ends of each cable.

Right.