How do YOU detail your bike?
 

I was reading GM's Bug Slide thread and it made me wonder, how does everyone clean their bikes? I know some of us are over the top OCD about clean bikes, then there are folks like me, who feel like dirt builds character, i.e. I wash my bike maaaaaybe once a year. I keep it maintained, take care of the chain, etc, I just dont feel like washing it, just to get it dirty again.

So, tell me how you do it! Soap and water? A specific detailed project using different types of products and why, etc. I may actually get out and wash mine...

Clean? I'm too busy riding it. New bugs knock old bugs off

I wash with a hose, a wash mitt, and Armor All car wash soap. Then I wax with Turtle Wax Ice.

Always. My rig is never dirty. Same goes for my car, my home, my yard, my cymbals, my drums, my guitars. I keep my shit clean.

Glad I'm not the only one...

:lol: Okay, so out of 4 of us, one washes a bike. Thanks Marko. Ironically, my bike is the only thing I allow to be dirty. I deep clean the house once a week, I try to keep that damn black jeep of mine clean, I even hose off the pollen and the bird poop at work, yet I have never been one to wash my bikes. I am really looking for ideas on the best way to do it, it's about time I clean mine up this year, not to mention I've got that Honda laying around that needs a cleaning. It's not mine so I guess I can wash it good. :wink:

During the riding season when I'm pretty much riding weekly, I wash mine every weekend. Water, carwash soap Meguiars, and Meguiars wax as needed

Soap and water once every few months (maybe), though the screen and lights get cleaned with Plexus pretty regularly.

Washing the bike and car are mostly just opportunities to let my 3-yr-old slosh soap suds around, and shoot something besides me with the hose.

This.

Fuck you guys and your "I'd rather ride it than wash it" bullshit. It isn't that hard.

So tell us how you do it. Thats what the thread is about, not knocking folks for their choice on how they let their bikes look...

:lol:

Sorry, that was more at Trip and his constant jabs "your GS is too clean"

Wash when dirty - like DIRTY, break out the hose, Turtle Wax Ice product line - their wash and wax. The spray wax is brilliant as it doesn't leave any white residue and actually makes any of the matte gray/black finish spectacular. All the while leaving that wax layer so I an just easily wipe off bugs/dirt/stuff later after a ride.

Quick detail - www.nowet.com is the best I know. I posted it in the bug thread as it's the best product I've ever used for that. Even to spray on and let disolve bugs... quick and easy.

I'm also a BIG fan of http://www.motorexusa.com/products.asp Their chain clean products are da bomb!!

I usually thrown mine down the track once or twice a season to remove those pesky bugs.

I usually only wash mine when I ride in winter salt conditions or when the bugs get too thick to see through the windscreen. I don't have a chain, so I don't give a shit.

The DRZ gets pressure washed with only water thrown back in it's garage corner after a day on the trail. The 50 gets the same treatment if I ride it off road, if I just race it on road, it never gets washed.

I usually only use 2 products ------ a fine polishing liquid for removing fine scratches, and a polymer sealant that acts like wax but isn't.

I just spray it down with water once in a while, if it looks like its covered in bugs I will use bug off on the covered areas

Pressure wash it when the Headlights have trouble cutting through the bugs.

Rae...if you get it nice and clean once then hit it with some of the bug stuff Gas posted, or Turtle Wax, or Plexus it'll be easier to keep clean if you knock the bugs off it periodically.

You don't need to hit crevices with a toothbrush like I do.

Car wash concentrate and a hose. Then some cleaner wax and then Turtle Wax Ice.

I'm with Azoomm, I like to wash my bike. I find its very therapeutic and relaxing. I like to make sure to knock the stuck on bugs and road grime off at least once every week or maybe stretch it to two weeks during the spring when the rain starts leaving it all spotty. During the summer when its mostly dry I will go to once every two weeks or when the grime is just......blegh. I like to keep it clean like Marko said but I don't wax it every time I wash it.
My washing method is simple; little bit of Turtle Wax Zipwax car wash foamed up with HOT water from in the house add in some cold from the hose to cool it down. Got a nice microfiber wash mit and and always as with all vehicles never start to wash a dry bike. Soak her down real good and start from top to bottom front to back. Since I have the removable saddle bags, I pop them off and wash all sides once a month and that way I can check on the tire pressure and the condition of said tire better as well. Since there are so many damn crevices and nooks and crannies I pull out the yard blower and get as much off then wipe off the rest of the water with a synthetic shammy called the Absorber.
Then a quick application of the Bug Slide that Gas previously mentioned. Done. Go for a ride.
As for the end of the year before the bike gets put away for the winter nap. I do the same as above except no blower just wipe it dry. Then we (Gas and I) used the clay bar and then polish and wax. Quick oil change and cover up and tuck her in for a nice winter nap. (Plugged in with battery tender, of course.)

Is it over the top? Nah. Its personal preference. If you don't care to ride around on a dingy, dirty, looks like you just picked it up at an auction look then that's your thing. But I take a bit of personal pride in my ride and like to show it.

I use the absorber too....used it for probably 10 or so years. Works great.

:lmao: Same here. And mine is about due for another wash pretty soon!

Heading to Road Atlanta next weekend... I rarely get out of there without giving the bike a thorough scrubbing.

of course you enjoy washing your bike, its a HD!
Why do HD riders polish their bikes so much?
makes it easier to spot on the side of the road!

You forgot to mention the put on bikini step ;)

With the Buell, I'd wash it when it really dirty, just a regular old wash.

With the KX, I hose it down every time I ride it, followed by a wash. Followed by any maintenance that it needs. Followed by a chain inspection, degrease and proper lubing. Followed by cleaning and oiling the air filter. I think I'll start waxing the plastics to see if it makes it any easier to clean.

Funny enough, it's quicker to keep the KX clean than it was the Buell, the rims on the Buell would take about 20 minutes each. I can do the whole KX in that amount of time.

Rookies.

If you're going to *really* clean it, then you need to take the thing entirely apart. Marko, your bike is dirty. You just can't see it. I'm calling you out. :lol

http://www.twowheelfix.com/attachmen...1&d=1265138263

http://www.twowheelfix.com/attachmen...1&d=1288402178

Mad respect, brother.

Props to those who keep thier shit clean, but....

I've never understood how people think a bike is worth a big premium over blue book just because it's spotless. I could buy a dirty bike and make it spotless in one afternoon, so I'm not paying anyone extra to do that for me.

I know, I know, the assumption is that if someone keeps his bike clean, he probably maintained it well too........But you don't know that unless you see his records or know him personally.

Blue Book has nothing to do with why I keep it clean. I do it for pride. I like everything I own to fucking look nice. And, on an aside, I maintain my shit too.

What he said.

3 simple steps...

Push bike in yard, hookup the hose, unless the fury of 2200psi!


I do it every weekend, it's down to a science because when I'm done riding it's the only thing(next to a personal shower) that stands between me and Pluckers.

I'm mostly the same way. But I really don't go all mad crazy cleaning my hog.

Funny thing is... I did when I had the chop. But to have one of those un clean just never looked right. Cave use to always give me shit about it, and he never washed his Honda.

Then poof... I got my Ultra and I wash it once a month unless caught in the rain... then I'll wash it when I'm free. But I have been known to rock out a real dirty bike for a few weeks, especially after a long road trip.

Cave on the other hand washes his HD a ton. Especially when compared to his when he had his Honda. It's like the shoes got flipped...

That's not good for the bike... honestly. Try some of the bug slide I posted about.

Oh yeah, I've had mine for over 15years... I swear. I think I own 2 or 3 of them.

1) Simple Green
2) Clean, soft cotton cloth
3) "Elbow Grease"
4) Spoke/Rim brush
5) Echo PB250 to Dry
6) Plexus for all painted and decorative plastic surfaces, except the instrument cluster

That's cool, I'm basically just commenting about all the for sale threads where someone posts "Yeah I've seen this bike, and I can vouch for it......It's spotless"..........I'm like, so? :lol

Yes, but a lot of people don't have clean bikes for the pride as well.

A well worked bike is a mark of pride among some circles and a "too" clean bike with a bright and shiny rider is an easy way to not get taken seriously by a lot of well versed riders. I don't expect many to understand, but there is a reason for that.

Clean does not mean it's well maintained either. Let's not bring that into this debate.

I get that too...but I don't live my life based on what others think. I'm looking out for number 1 at all times, son.

You guys are awesome, thanks for the input. If I get a spare moment I will try and go shopping for some cleaner and maybe shine her up this weekend, just in time to ride her out to Jennings to spectate and get her all dirty again. :lol:

Yeah, there are about 2100 problems with unleashing "2200 psi of fury" on your bike.

2200 psi will blow the grease right out of your wheel bearings, swing arm pivots, head bearings and sealed chains, and get water into places it never would have gotten on it's own.

Do not want.

JC

You might wanna get a better bike then, because it doesn't do that to mine.

the only moisture the DRZ ever saw was rain... it's still got dirt on it from the day I got it I'm sure...


only part I EVER CLEANED that you can see is the chain...

You might want to check with anybody who makes bearings, and ask them if it's cool to shoot water at them at 2200 psi.

Here's a hint:

No, it's not. :lol:

JC

Plexus is pretty awesome, that and mothers

I use the plexus and have a can of s100 that I actualy got for free a while back. seems to do a good job for cleaning.

I dont wash the bike to often but do keep up on the chain esp with riding it on and off the jobsites with all th emud and concrete crap.

Other than that I will use wd40 to clean the chain goop and brake dust off the rims

The last time my bike was washed was last May. My buddy Doug washed her for me in a car wash on our way to the annual VFRD meet at the Gap. :lol: Flat black looks the same no matter what..

I live on a dirt road so washing is pointless anyway. My car gets washed weekly and you can never tell! :(. If I want to clean the chain on the bike I take the stuff with me and do it while out otherwise it's a dirt magnet.

Apparently you're "not" supposed to do that...

Before or after blowing the piston of said pressure washer all over the driveway...?

I admire a man with True Grit, and you have it.

You pushed it through the seals on your forks, and all the bearings and bushings you could find, at 80 McBillion miles an hour.

So, there it is, reading Rust Monthly's Swimsuit Edition, thinking to itself, "Man these tapered rollers are kinda cute. Maybe I'll just wedge myself up there some..."

The ironic side of all this, is that when grit decides to have sex with your bearings, there's no lube, because you blew it all out when you blew the grit in.

In my experience, this means someone is going to cry.

JC

Cool story bro.

I'll let you know when that happens.

I wash mine by riding in the rain... :lol:

Other than that, just rub the bugs off the headlights/windscreen.

That's ok.

I'm sure it won't happen to YOUR bike, on account of how it's so much better than other bikes...

Besides, everyone knows that the laws of common sense don't really apply in Texas.

JC

I wonder what kind of abuse a DIRT bike could take that would be comparable to getting it wet?:lol

Riiiiight, cause dirt bikes have the magic bearings that withstand water pressure at 150 times the normal atmospheric pressure.

I completely forgot about that...

JC

I never wash my bike.

Leon does it for me.

Good assumption. I also hold it close enough to take off the stickers and cut the seat.

:lol

I see.

You're one of those "smart guys" that uses a pressure washer from a "safe" distance, which basically turns a pressure washer into a really expensive gas burning garden hose.

JC

That's a whole lot of blah blah blah to say, "If you're not an idiot you can use a pressure washer on a motorcycle".

If you're not going to use high pressure, what's the fucking point? :lol:

You want blah blah blah? Here:

(for those of you wanting crib notes in advance, water is bad, lotsa water at high speed is worse)

By Jim Fitch, from Machinery Lubrication magazine, July/August 2008. www.machinerylubrication.com

Most of us who have spent time in the lubrication field have been told that it takes only a small amount of water (less than 500 ppm) to substantially shorten the service life of rolling element bearings. There is indeed a vast amount of research that supports these assertions. Being a career-long crusader of clean and dry oil, I will certainly not argue the contrary. In fact, water's destructive effects on bearings can easily reach or exceed that of particle contamination, depending on the conditions.

My theme for this column, therefore, is not about whether water imparts harm but rather how it does. Knowing how water attacks and causes damage helps in setting important dryness targets and also aids failure investigations post mortem. Further, when water contamination is unavoidable, understanding these water-induced failure modes can be valuable in the optimum selection of lubricants, bearings and seals for defensive purposes.

The Scourge of our Machines
There is no contaminant more complex, intense and confounding than water. The reasons are still being studied, but they include its various states of co-existence with the oil and its many chemical and physical transformations imparted during service. Individually and collectively, moisture-induced problems exact damage on both the oil and machine and can certainly lead, either slowly or abruptly, to operational failure of the bearing. Do not underestimate the attack potential of water.

Water can damage machine surfaces directly, through a sequence of events and often with a variety of helpers. In many cases, the most severe damage is the cascading or chain reaction failure. For instance, water may lead first to premature oxidation of the base oil. When the oxides combine with more water, a corrosive acidic fluid environment exists.

Likewise, oxidation can throw-off sludgy insolubles and increase oil viscosity. Both processes can impede oil flow and lead to damage of the bearing. Not to be left out, the water and oxidative environment can hang up air in the oil, amplifying lubrication problems even further. It's often true that the worse things get, the faster they get worse; all started by water.

Failure Modalities
In order to keep this column to a manageable length and scope, the modalities described below will be brief and to the point. I've left out those that are farfetched or technically abstract, as well as a couple rooted more in popular lore than scientific fact. There are even some failure modes on my list that are largely derived from conjecture, but still believable. Finally, I've made no effort to rank the failure modes in terms of severity or commonality.

My list:

Hydrogen-induced Fractures. Often called hydrogen embrittlement or blistering, this failure mode is perhaps more acute and prevalent than most tribologists and bearing manufacturers are aware. The sources of the hydrogen can be water, but also electrolysis and corrosion (aided by water). There is evidence that water is attracted to microscopic fatigue cracks in balls and rollers by capillary forces. Once in contact with the free metal within the fissure, the water breaks down and liberates atomic hydrogen. This causes further crack propagation and fracture. High tensile-strength steels are at greatest risk. Sulfur from additives (extreme pressure (EP), antiwear (AW), etc.), mineral oils and environmental hydrogen sulfide may accelerate the progress of the facture. Risk is posed by both soluble and free water.

Corrosion. Rust requires water. Even soluble water can contribute to rust formation. Water gives acids their greatest corrosive potential. Etched and pitted surfaces from corrosion on bearing raceways and rolling elements disrupt the formation of critical elastohydrodynamic (EHD) oil films that give bearing lubricants film strength to control contact fatigue and wear. Static etching and fretting are also accelerated by free water.

Oxidation. Many bearings have only a limited volume of lubricant and, therefore, just a scintilla of antioxidant. High temperatures flanked by metal particles and water can consume the antioxidants rapidly and rid the lubricant from the needed oxidative protective environment. The negative consequences of oil oxidation are numerous but include corrosion, sludge, varnish and impaired oil flow.

Additive Depletion. We've mentioned that water aids in the depletion of antioxidants, but it also cripples or diminishes the performance of a host of other additives. These include AW, EP, rust inhibitors, dispersants, detergents and demulsifying agents. Water can hydrolyze some additives, agglomerate others or simply wash them out of the working fluid into puddles on sump floors. Sulfur-phosphorous EP additives in the presence of water can transform into sulfuric and phosphoric acids, increasing an oil's acid number (AN).

Oil Flow Restrictions. Water is highly polar, and as such, has the interesting ability to mop up oil impurities that are also polar (oxides, dead additives, particles, carbon fines and resin, for instance) to form sludge balls and emulsions. These amorphous suspensions can enter critical oil ways, glands and orifices that feed bearings of lubricating oil. When the sludge impedes oil flow, the bearing suffers a starvation condition and failure is imminent. Additionally, filters are short-lived in oil systems loaded with suspended sludge. In subfreezing conditions, free water can form ice crystals which can interfere with oil flow as well.

Aeration and Foam. Water lowers an oil's interfacial tension (IFT), which can cripple its air-handling ability, leading to aeration and foam. It takes only about 1,000 ppm water to turn your bearing sump into a bubble bath. Air can weaken oil films, increase heat, induce oxidation, cause cavitation and interfere with oil flow; all catastrophic to the bearing. Aeration and foam can also incapacitate the effectiveness of oil slingers/flingers, ring oilers and collar oilers.

Impaired Film Strength. Rolling element bearings depend on an oil's viscosity to create a critical clearance under load. If the loads are too great, speeds are too low or the viscosity is too thin, then the fatigue life of the bearing is shortened. When small globules of water are pulled into the load zone the clearance is often lost, resulting in bumping or rubbing of the opposing surfaces (rolling element and raceway). Lubricants normally get stiff under load (referred to as their pressure-viscosity coefficient) which is needed to bear the working load (often greater than 500,000 psi).

However, water's viscosity is only one centistoke and this viscosity remains virtually unchanged, regardless of the load exerted. It is not good at bearing high-pressure loads. This results in collapsed film strength followed by fatigue cracks, pits and spalls. Water can also flash or explode into superheated steam in bearing load zones, which can sharply disrupt oil films and potentially fracture surfaces.

Microbial Contamination. Water is a known promoter of microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria. Over time, these can form thick biomass suspensions that can plug filters and interfere with oil flow. Microbial contamination is also corrosive.

Water Washing. When grease is contaminated with water, it can soften and flow out of the bearing. Water sprays can also wash the grease directly from the bearing, depending on the grease thickener and conditions.

The obvious solution to the water problem is a proactive solution; that is, preventing the intrusion of water into the oil/grease and bearing environment. The only water that doesn't cause harm is the water that doesn't invade your system. Contaminant exclusion tactics are always a wise maintenance investment.

Be a long-term thinker by controlling risk factors today, while the bearing still has remaining useful life (RUL). The cost of removing water and/or remediating the damage it causes will far exceed any investment to exclude it from entry. So please, don't skimp when it comes to "proactive" contamination control. About the Author

Jim Fitch has a wealth of "in the trenches" experience in lubrication, oil analysis, tribology and machinery failure investigations. Over the past two decades, he has presented hundreds of lectures on these subjects. Jim has published more than 200 technical articles, papers and publications. He serves as a U.S. delegate to the ISO tribology and oil analysis working group. Since 2002, he has been director and board member of the International Council for Machinery Lubrication. He co-founded Noria Corporation in 1997 and remains an active chairman and senior technical consultant.

Ok, enough with the wordy bits.

Here's a picture of a rear axle that got pressure washed on a regular basis.

It didn't turn out very well...

JC

I like your style. :wink:

Well after 100 washes our oldest dirtbike still has plenty of bearing grease left, so you can claim whatever you want.

Dirtbikes these days ARE built to withstand pressure washing unlike the bikes of your era.

Fork seals are the most common failing part, however I HARDLY would say it comes from pressure washing the forks. :lol: I mean, setting your compression low and hitting a BIG jump and landing hard will blow out your seals. Also forks these days come with multiple chambers for this very purpose, and my shocks have about 3 seals that particles will have to breach before really cause damage to valves or springs.

I don't worry about the oil because that's changed with every seal change. With the amount of riding we do(50 wks out of the year) we usually have to change the seals once a year. The only way to extend that is to either NOT ride, which will cause drying of the seals and they will deteriorate faster than if you had ridden, or ride the bike around in a field just to say it was ridden. Neither of which are fun.

You can talk all the science on paper you want, I KNOW from experience of 4 years of pressure washing it takes a LONG time for water to really wear out bearings and bushings, thankfully those are replaced when they need be. I do take exceptional care of my bikes because I tend to resell them often, but we have several we have kept for awhile all of which are tip top. General maintenance and a good wash actually extend the life of the parts because if we left the dirt on them, they would not last long.

So I'll take my chances with what works versus what doesn't.

:cheers:

Apparently, so does Leon...

They didnt have internal combustion engines in his early days, remember time started on his berfday :lol:

Are the dirtbike fork/seals different from the street ones. I had one go on my aprilia and we think it was hastened because of riding on and off the construction sites a lot of mud, dirt an dvarious debris here and its all over the fenders and undersides of the bike. I now wipe down the tubes after I ride through the site just to be safe

Technically speaking all forks are the same because they all do the same job.

However internals can vary from bike to bike. If you wipe your tubes down, make sure you put a little oil back on the dust seal(the visible oil seal) so it doesn't dry and crack, dirt will have an easier time reaching your internals. Preferably fork oil.

I usualy spray alil wd40 on the tubes, but will put some oil around the seals too. I wa sjust wondering if dirtbiked went to greater measures to keep the seals intact given the riding environments vs a street bike.

In true TWFix style...assholes, this is about cleaning bikes, not arguing the pros or cons of using a pressure washer on mechanical things. :lol:

I think I'm leaning more towards Kel's style, got a friend who runs a bike shop across the street taking mine today for a full detail. For the grand ole price of a can of cleaner. I was informed my bike needed serious TLC in the cleaning department. He volunteered, who am I to argue?? :wink:

Get back in your tree and make me some cookies damn it :scared: :lol:

They build them to withstand both terrain and most riders, but lots of people upgrade to suit their needs as far as skill level and weight. I would stay away with the WD, that will causing your seal to dry up faster than just soap and water without using oil to relube the seal.

But it IS about cleaning bikes? :?:

Good luck with that, I been asking for cookies for over 5 years now.

I think she likes me a little more than you since I also serve as apiece of furniture when shes hammered :lol:

I iwll see what I can do on the cookies front and hook ya up ;)

I wasn't talking to you Tye dear...

Ya know, one of these days I'll bring a truck to a rally and drown you guys in cookies. Then you'll be sorry...yea, that's right.

:lol:

want!!!!!!

That's the best way to detail a bike.

Hellz yeah!!!

:cheers: yup

Really? Good for you. I'm curious as to how you arrived at this conclusion. I'm curious because the wheel bearings in your YZ250 (like the wheel bearings in just about every other modern bike on the planet) are of the sealed variety. Sealed, as in sealed at the factory when they put the grease in. So unless you have x-ray vision, or you pulled your bearings apart with a can opener, you have no fucking idea what is, or isn't in there.

:lol: My era? The oldest dirt bike at my place, is a 2001 KTM 640, so, so much for that theory.

And what causes fork seals to leak? Grit stuck between the seal and the fork tube, right? And what's the easiest way to insert grit? Shove it in there with water at high pressure, yay! It really ain't that hard to figure out.

:lol:

Science and Texans....I should have known that would be a problem.

I think the whole point, is that without the pressure washing, they wouldn't have to be thankfully replaced quite as often.


The big question is, why? Is it a power tool thing, cause I understand that, I'm a power tool kinda guy. What the fuck are you riding in, that's so hard to get off of your bike? I ride in some nasty, mucky red clay and that shit comes off just fine with a regular hose. I might wash my bike with a pressure washer, if I rode through a giant pile of AIDS or something, but that's about it.

JC