Need Help Please.
 

Yesterday, i let the clutch out and stalled the bike. my fault. put it in neutral, flipped the cutoff switch off then back on, start, nothing. take key out, and start from begining. key to on, (i dont hear the sounds i usually do) lights/indicators come on, but still nothing. 1/2 mile from work, so coworker shows up and helps move me to a gastation parking lot where whe connect the jumper cables to the battery and let it sit. (i have never jump started a bike, but i knew not to have the cars engine on.) still nothing. finally we decide to push start it and it starts right up. get it to work, finish my day, try to start the bike and it starts right up.


07 r1- flush mount and CA taillight are the only electrical mods done to the bike a long while back. factory battery, and i use a bat. tender when i know i wont be riding for a couple of days.

first thing to do this weekend is to get a volt meter (Thanks GM, we do listen)but can anyone tell me what i should be looking for? checking?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Not trying to postwhore I swear, but if your lights and indicators came on fine, I dont think it would be an issue with the battery being bad.

I killed mine a few weeks ago and got nothing, no response at all...had to let her sit on the tender a long time but managed to get the battery charged...she works and I got a spare in case...

have you had any issues with her starting back up since then?

I know ive stalled before and it took a minute to restart but its not a constant thing...

Kickstand switch? Clutch in switch? Some have the switch that won't let it start won't start without the clutch in...Test light and maybe you can google up the wiring schematics...Could check for in line blow fuses in the wiring harness...Good luck!

Another thing is to never jump start a bike from a car.

They Say that...But if I had no choice I'd Do it...Just make sure it was as quickly done as possible.

I wont jumpstart my CBR unless the battery is COMPLETELY dead. then I'll try to find somewhere with a trickle charger instead. otherwise, BUMP START.

I've jump started my bike with a car a bunch of times.

Just don't do it like this guy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi6N5...d=60854&page=1

Tried about an hour and a half after I got home, it started.
Just tried it again and it didn’t start. It cranked twice and then all I heard was fast tick sound coming from under the seat and all the indicator lights dimming.

in the parking lot, I was in neutral, clutch in and kickstand up. This was after about 30 mins of waiting on the side of the road.

Normally the bike would start in neutral with stand down and clutch out.

I hear ya. I have the deltran jr. and it came with the alligator clips. Plugged one end to the connector and used the clips on the car battery. Made sure the car was off.



Thanks everyone, running the charger to it now. Tomorrow I’m taking the battery to get tested.

Smileyman hit the likely culprits. Definitely check the connections at the clutch switch. Unplug it and plug it back in to see if that helps. I'm thinking a bad sidestand switch would probably prevent the push start, too, but it can't hurt to check that connection.

When you get the meter, find the starter relay and see if you get power to it when you press the start button. If not, it could be a bad start switch. If you get power to the relay, but no power past it, it's a bad relay. If the power's getting to the starter, but nothing happens, it's a bad starter. If you're lucky, the solenoid is replaceable separately. If you're unlucky (like my dad), you gotta replace the starter.

If you don't want to bother with the testing, just throw a starter relay in there and see if it helps. They're pretty cheap. :dthumb:

Edit: Never mind the switches then... :) If it's not the battery, it's still worth checking the relay. They can do some freaky stuff when they're going bad.

RE: Jumpstarting from a car - You can use a car's battery to jump start a bike just fine. You want to ensure that the car is OFF, as the current spike from a running car's alternator going into recharge mode (i.e. high output) can have 'less than optimal results' for your bike.

RE: Batteries (In General) - If the battery is the "needs maintenance" type, have you checked to ensure that the water/electrolyte levels are up to the proper marks? A battery may have the voltage necessary to run some lights, but no where near the Amp-Hour (Ah) capacity to actually perform more than one start. Also most motocycle charging systems need the bike to be ridden at least 15-25 minutes to recover ONE "cold start". If you're taking several short trips less than that interval, you'll never fully recharge the battery. Repetitive discharging without recovery, and eventually you'll "kill" the battery's ability to hold enough charge to function. Its also not unusual for some bikes to need a new battery every 18-24 months (depending on their "off-state" current draw, external maintenance charging, etc.).

I'd first pull the battery and take it down to your local shop and have them check it. If you don't trust them, take the battery to a large auto repair shop. They likely have a battery tester that can be set in "powersports" mode that will test a battery that small (e.g. Pep Boys, NTB, etc.).

YMMV... :D

That sounds like loss connections. Check, clean. Other wise the battery may be done. Issues like this are most always either operator error by missing a safety feature. In other cases it is one of those components that is malfunction. :luck:

As said... it is fine to do with a car off but should not become a regular practice, the car batteries still have a much higher amperage than our little bike batteries.

Allow me to echo what others have said. First and foremost, check the battery. Always start there. Needs to show 12.8volts.

Go to Radio shack and get some contact and board cleaner. They sell a nice can that has a cleaner and lube in it. White can, red print. Cost about $7.

Now as said, check the clutch and kickstand switch. You can do this easily by pulling their harness plugs, using your multi meter (set to ohlms), and by activating the switch it should change from an open to close circuit. Then spray the switching mechanismn and the plug, allow a few mins for it to work in, then plug the switch back in. Do this to both safety switches.

Now when it comes time to check the starter relay, check for the voltage there when the start button is pressed.

Further, may want to check your solinoid connections. I'm not sure about your starter but many times there is a solenoid cover on the end of your starters. This is the mechanics of what happens when you push the start button. Its magnetic. It pulls the contacts into the plunger which draws the power from the battery and activates the starter itself.

Under the cover you will find something like this...
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/Day6053.jpg

before cleaning and corrosion at the arrows with emry cloth (like 150 grit)
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2358.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2359.jpg

Not done but you get the idea
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2362.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/IMG_2361.jpg


Your cover may look something like this
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...n/DSC00589.jpg

idk mine did the same and I just bought a battery tender and charged her for like two days and she was good to go after that.


good luck

thanks again every one. havent had time to get the things i need yet, but will check everything that has been mentioned by you all. :twfix:

Don't over look the simple stuff: Make sure your batt cables are tight.

Truth...

I've seen alot of fucked up shit from just a loose negative terminal.

Yes and that means checking both ends of each cable.

Right.

the fast click tells me either battery, relay, or something crazy with the starter...

local autozone says no load test on battery, but they can charge it. havent been able to get a volt meter yet, cc canceled due to fraud (218.00 charge out of florida, i live in CA) and just too damn busy to wait in line at the bank.
hopefully this weekend i can finally check it out.
thanks again...

I'd charge the battery and make sure the cable connections are good. My bike is an '06 and I've never had to charge the battery...I think one of your connections came a little loose. You shouldn't have to replace a mc batt in just two years. Also,the possibility exists that the dealership never properly charged your battery in the first place and it's never been fully charged....