How many inches/mm have you lowered your front end?
 

We lowered my friend's R1 6mm on Monday, wow what a difference in handling for such a slight change. Bike lays over so much easier now.

I'm down 8mm in the front and up 6mm (3 spacers) in the rear.

I'm gonna play with mine this weekend.

Ugh, I didn't need to know about your weekend sex plans!

:zowned:

My bike is untouched from the factory.

4mm lower

None! :D And I'm short! :rofl:

virgin!!!

I don't think the 5mm would help you much anyway

14mm total on a Gixxer 1000? Wow..I had 17mm on my old 2003 ZX7R and it while is really made it live, it also felt like the rear end wanted to come around over the front.

Currently on my 600rr I have 0...it really doesn't need faster turn in.

You'll notice a difference at 5mm.

You'd be surprised at the slightest differences I can tell, even between different bikes. When the ex changed out his rear shock on his bike, I could tell it was lower. He couldn't. :lol: Even before then I could tell the difference between his 05 SV650 and my 03 SV650. Even though the seat height is exactly the same, the real tail on mine is a little higher, causing me to sit at different angles on the bikes. I could get more toe down on each side on his bike than mine.

Here's pics showing the difference between the tail section of the bikes.

My 636 is down about 5mm in the front, IIRC. The ZZR is already quick as shit turning in, and the clipons on the GSXR are already so damn low that I can't bear to bring them down any.

Mine was a little higher than stock when I switched out to the Ohlins. About 2-3 mm. I compensated for that by raising the rear ride height about a full cm. and running a 190/55 tire. It sits really tall but the faster you go, the better it works.

Yeah, I know I was messing with Rogue about her height. But when she's that short I'm sure her feet would notice 1mm difference!:nee:

Yea 5mm is a decent percentage of her overall height....:whistle:

Mine is also untouched from the factory. :idk:

Another virgin...:wink:

So is mine...I can flick my Bike around a corner like there's no Tomorrow...I don't need to lower it any.

Ah well, it's like guys that swear they don't need to enhance the power of their bike or modify the stock suspension... If you've never tried it, you really don't know.

I have Wheeler at the gap tune my suspension every year, but I dont remember the specs, he makes her good, thats good enough for me...:shrug:

Sport Rider recommended 2mm in the front. I set up my suspension to exactly what they said

Hey, what does he charge? I'm thinking of doing the same thing when I get to the gap if I get there early enough before I have to meet Trip.

It was under $100 I think...last time I had him tune n dyno the bike and reset my suspension and I think it cost me like $120...down here it'd cost like $300-500 or that...

What? A dyno tune is about $200 on a good day! Wow! Oh yea, I'm going for sure! I'm leaving at about 8-9 am and google expects it to take about 7 hours, I'm thinking about 6 or less. That puts me in the area about 2 or 3 pm and Trip want s to meet up at 5 or so. It's doable. Hey is Wheelers on 129?

It is phenominal pricing, but depending on how busy he is, it might take you hours to get your bike done. Wheeler always works on my bike (i prefer that rather than one of his sometimes odd techs) and so long as he isnt slammed, it never takes too long, but my first trip I had to give up it took so long!

http://www.wheelersperformance.com/

And both ride Kawasaki

I'm headed up to see him sometime in May.

Start here

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/index.html

4inches in the front on the kawi, gotta make up for the other two kawi virgins lol

0 no messy with either of em

Yes, I know it could be better but I just don't like change. Though one guy told me that if I can ride my bike the way it is now (hard as a rock) and have it feel good then imagine how I could ride it if it were set up properly for me.

When I hear about you guys changing this and that and whatever. It's like how would you ever get it back to "normal" if you ever wanted it that way and would it even feel the same as before. Just seems like some go so far off the beaten path that it can't be good.

Ah my dear, that's why you keep a log of the changes and your base numbers. If you happen to forget, the base numbers can be found in you owner's manual. Or you can keep the changes in your notes on your Power Commander.

Nuttin on the Buell. I don't want a faster turn in.

Different bikes call for different adjustment.

I have an '05R1. With the stock front/rear suspension and pirelli supercorsa pro's I had to RAISE the front 2 mm. Otherwise the front wanted to fold under during trail breaking. The rear would squat coming off corners causing the bike to run wide.

Now I have Ohlins 25mm cartridges and a penske triple clicker. The forks are 10mm longer then stock and the rear is 6mm taller then stock (penske is 2mm longer combined with 600 spring and 190/55 tire).

Final settings were raise the forks 6mm through the triple and set the shock at it's shortest position.(This bike does not need or like additional height in the rear. Graves makes a shock clevis the lowers the rear 3.5mm)

Total sag is set at 40mm front/35mm rear

Right now the bike turns sightly slower then it did stock but the added stability trailing into a corner is so worth the tradeoff. The bike comes off the corners and holds a line perfect now. It actually feels like a horsepower boost since I can open the throttle faster with the penske out back.

Best mod to the bike by far!!!

Every bike that I have ever ridden that was lowered handled like complete ass.

That's cuz they're doing it the wrong way.

There's slamming a bike for aesthetic reasons, and then there's lowering the bike slightly in a way that it changes the geometry for the better.

Decreasing rake/trail by either dropping the front a few mm or raising the rear a few mm quickens the handling by removing some of the stability that's dialed into the bike from the factory.

The rear of my SV race bike is jacked the mutha eff up via an Ohlins and the front is dropped slightly. With the Diablo Supercorsas on there, the thing reads my freakin mind... I also have Scott's damper to compensate for the loss of stability.


Just remember, a little goes a long way and everything else has to be in proper order for it to be safe & effective. This "mod" should only be done AFTER the rest of the suspension is set up for you & your weight.

lowered 8mm in the front when the Ohlins internals were installed. Stock penske in the rear sprung for my weight. HUGE difference!!

Yes, I'm talking strictly those that were lowered for short people.