Charging System
 

Ok, the bike cranked up and started just fine and after a 20 minute ride to the local dealership. I went in for 5 minutes and came out it would turn over but not start and the gauge cluster would fade away. I believe its the charging system but unfortunately i dont know much about it. Any ideas? What is the proper running voltage on and off ?. btw its a 2002 TLR. Yes ive looked at the other charging threads but im an idiot when it comes to batteries and such, but it would stay at a constant 13.5 running and off and as i reved it up it would drop a bit.
I think the problem is the rectifier, and this is what im lookin at for a replacement someone tell me if im wrong or throw in their 2 cents before i spend 80 bucks please
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUK...5390QQtcZphoto
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1) First, remove the battery, fully charge it (trickle charger, overnight - also fill up any cells that are low with distilled water beforehand [assuming its not a sealed battery]), and then take the battery in to be tested to see if its good or bad.

A bad/marginal battery cell can 'appear' to be a charing system issue.

If the battery tests OK, then you need the shop manual for the bike. You'll test the output of the stator/rotor assembly, This critter puts out alternating current (AC). You'll measure the voltage between all of the sets of wires - usually three (the manual will have the value to test for). If that tests fine, you can either just try a new regulator or simply take the old one in to a shop to be tested.

"Normal" charing system output is 1-2VDC above the "resting", fully charged battery voltage for your bike.

YMMV... :shurg:

I feel like blowing my brains out after that post, ugggggggg
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LovelyWendie99

My 79 Suzuki had a separate regulator and rectifier, so it was easy to test each. When the rectifier turned out to be bad, I got a new regulator/rectifier (I think it is from a Honda) and hooked it in. Checking voltage and resistance is even easier than Joshua Tree states. Getting to the wires is the hard part. Why blow your brains out?

The rectifier changes alternating current to direct current. The diodes can be checked using your voltmeter and manual. It's easier than spending $80 for a R/R, especially if you still have the same problem after hooking it up. Than you don't know if the new R/R is bad or if something else is wrong (like a bad ground, bad connection, bad battery, bad stator, bad regulator, etc.). And electrical parts can rarely be returned.

http://chucksirois.com/TL1000/FAQ.ht...onnector%20fix
Look here first and try the plus mod or the charging system mod...I had the same issues, went through 2 batteries and the mods cleared this up...Check for corrosion on the main terminal first...it only takes a small amount of corrosion to wreak all kinds of havok on the TL.

Sounds like the voltage regulator. I also suck with electronics, but owning an aprilia futura forced me ot learn more about them, an dwent through a few regulators and solenoids on that bike. I have a TLS never had charging issues, just oil leaks :(

Tom

I did have electrical problems before and soldered the main terminal. (before i knew it was a problem) Imma gonna open it up and look at the terminal today or tomorrow and see whats up.

And you ask why blow my brains out becuase i hate working with electronic crap, and i hate not knowing whats wrong. I look at wiring diagrams and i wanna cry.
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