Another in the running for a new bike

[t-homo]

Originally Posted by PhiSig1071

It's a good bike, with that many miles it's due a couple valve-checks, if you can get some reciepts for service that'd be a bonus. Also, I would take the bike to a shop and have them check it out, 11 years and 35k miles some things start to wear out. Also, first thing I do with a new bike is change the oil/fluids, you should too.

If I were you, and if you have the cash, I would give the motor and chassis a complete and very thorough tune-up, because 11 years is a long time, and 35k is a significant amount of miles. In this order of importance I would replace the brake fluid/pads on the front, motor tune-up (clean/synch carbs and new plugs), get the forks redone with new seals/oil, new steering head bearings, have the shock rebuilt, swingarm pivot bushings/bearings, and possibly some new wheel bearings too. If you have the extra cash I would recommend upgrading the suspension while you're at it, RaceTech makes very good re-valving kits for the GSXR about about $140 for the forks and $140 for the shock, and get a set of fork springs that are right for your weight.

I know it sounds like a lot, and it is, which is why I listed it in the order I would recommend doing it, but the difference in the feel and ride of the bike will be like night and day. If you do all that then the bike should ride like a brand new bike.

Originally Posted by OTB

To answer your question; I would do the above, as well as check two other things:

A. Compression test. No doubt you will have lost a bit, but what you are really looking for is the differential between cylinders; you don't want more than 10-12 psi difference between them. Any more than that and it indicates valve and/or ring issues.

B. I would replace the cam chain and tensioner on that motor, as flailing cam chains were about the only problems ever found on high-milage examples of those bikes and you really don't know the level of care it has received.

I would also have the current owner start the bike cold, with you standing off to the side/rear, and watch the exhaust. A blue puff on cold startup indicates oil is leaking down into the cylinder(s) while the bike sits. This is indicative of worn valve guides. Those are about the only things to watch for outside of the norm.

Thanks a ton guys. Without you I would be completely lost.

[PhiSig1071]

Originally Posted by OTB

To answer your question; I would do the above, as well as check two other things:

A. Compression test. No doubt you will have lost a bit, but what you are really looking for is the differential between cylinders; you don't want more than 10-12 psi difference between them. Any more than that and it indicates valve and/or ring issues.

B. I would replace the cam chain and tensioner on that motor, as flailing cam chains were about the only problems ever found on high-milage examples of those bikes and you really don't know the level of care it has received.

I would also have the current owner start the bike cold, with you standing off to the side/rear, and watch the exhaust. A blue puff on cold startup indicates oil is leaking down into the cylinder(s) while the bike sits. This is indicative of worn valve guides. Those are about the only things to watch for outside of the norm.

I agree completely, I would add those to the list. The motor stuff is obviously more important than anything else. I know it sounds like a lot, but trust me, ride the bike before that and then again after it and the difference will astound you. It'll be worth every penny, and then some.

[t-homo]

Originally Posted by PhiSig1071

I agree completely, I would add those to the list. The motor stuff is obviously more important than anything else. I know it sounds like a lot, but trust me, ride the bike before that and then again after it and the difference will astound you. It'll be worth every penny, and then some.

I doubt I will be able to get it all done at once. But hopefully over the summer I will make enough to get it all done piece by piece.

[PhiSig1071]

Originally Posted by t-rock

I doubt I will be able to get it all done at once. But hopefully over the summer I will make enough to get it all done piece by piece.

Outstanding, if the bike isn't burning oil and has good compression I see no reason why you can't double those miles with proper maintainence and care. Another thought, if you are like the rest of us and eventually get addicted to track, that GSXR will make an excellent track-hack when you can afford a nicer street bike.

One thing, try to do things in together, ie new fork stuff and steering head bearings, or rebuilt shock and swingarm bushings.

Another thing that will make an improvement on the bike (possibly) and might be free (if you have a torque wrench). Go in and check all the motor mount bolts. Then torque them to spec. After time they'll come loose, they can actually stretch too, which can cause undue vibrations and effect the handling of the bike (remember, it's a stressed frame, the motor is part of the frame). If you find some that are badly out of torque spec and have never been touched (there will be a paint mark on the bolt and on the frame for reference, it'll look like a paint drip spot) then you can think about replacing them.

I helped a friend revive an old Yamaha XS11, and this was all stuff we did, and I couldn't believe the difference.

[t-homo]

Very first thing is going to be new tires. He said the back is going to need to be replaced this summer, but it has dunlops now, so I am going to put pilot powers or corsa 3s on both as soon as i can.

[PhiSig1071]

Both are excellent tires!

Good Luck with the purchase! You will be happy with that bike. I love my GSXR, bought new and now with about 25k miles.

[t-homo]

I just hope the deal goes through as easily as it seems that it will. The only downfall is that right now I am 2 hours away from home. Another 9 days before I will be back.

I might just talk to my neighbor and trust him on it. He has been riding for a long time and raced supermoto up until last year.

Either that or a trusted friend who has been riding for 5 years now.

[Mrs. Colleen]

Mrs. Colleen's husband here... As long as this particular bike hasn't been thrashed (a lot of them have by now) it should make an excellent and reliable bike, especially for trackdays. Obviously, check for all the normal things you would look for with any used bike purchase. There's really only one thing to look out for:

Cam chain tensioner. They are notorious for failing. If the bike doesn't already have one, buy a manual adjuster from APE for like $65 and you won't have to worry about it. It's well worth the small price to pay to avoid a potential disaster.



I've had my bike for 7 years and have 32,000 miles on it now, and it's never given me any real problem, but here's a few more pointers:

The mounting tabs on the ram air tubes are easy to break from tightening the bolt too tight. I've broken a tab on each bike, but it will be fine without it.

A lot of people have problems with the neutral light. Mine works fine at first, but will stop coming on when it's hot. I've never actually tried to fix it though. Just know that it's common and is nothing to worry about.

The front tab that holds the airbox to the frame will probably not be lined up. On both my gixxers I had the bolt rip its way through the tab. This will also cause the air inlets to not sit flush with the passageways in the frame. It's fairly common and not an issue.

Definitely check the valve clearances. It's easy to check, but a PITA to adjust because you have to change the shims under the buckets, instead of turning an adjuster screw. But fortunately, it is common for them to stay in spec. I did my last check around 28k, they were all within spec and have never been adjusted.

A fairly common issue is trouble starting the bike when it's hot. One of the causes is the starter motor going bad. Even if you don't have problems, I would recommend removing the starter (it's really easy) opening it up, and just cleaning out all the dust that has come off the brushes. Get a multimeter and check all the plates for continuity too.

Another cause of difficult starting is improperly tuned carbs. One of the most difficult things to deal with is a used bike where you have no idea what the previous owner did to the carbs, but something is not right. If the bike's carbs have never been touched, you're in good shape. If the fuel mixture screws are exposed (some versions of the bike came with plugs over them) verify that they are set correctly. And definitely sync the throttle plates, they will probably be a bit out.

If you just have exhaust, a jet kit is not necessary. But you may decide to go that route for some more power. It definitely makes a difference. I have full exhaust and a K&N filter, so I added a jet kit, as recommended by Yosh. I have the Dynojet kit. I did all that 2 weeks after I got the bike and have been very happy with it, but I have heard that the Factory Pro kit is better.

You mentioned it has different headlight bulbs. If the wattage is much higher than the stock 50/55W, you run the risk of overheating one of the connectors. If you remove the lower left fairing, you'll find a large yellow connector. I can't remember which wire goes to the headlight, but that's where it would overheat. I just bypassed that connector for that one wire and used a larger single connector.

Of course you'll want a service manual. I have the Clymer and would highly recommend it. I've had a factory Honda manual, and for cars a Haynes, Chilton, and factory Chevy. The Clymer is the best one I've ever had.

The rectifier is a common failure. I've never had an issue with mine, but if you've got strange electrical/charging problems, start looking there.

Fuel pump gasket. This was a recalled item due to leaking and has probably already been replaced with the new 2-piece gasket. If you ever find some fuel leaking down the frame while the bike is sitting, that's probably the culprit.

[t-homo]

Thanks a ton man. That was pretty much everything I was looking for as far as common problems go.

[t-homo]

So that deal fell through because the guy says he wants to just sit on the bike now instead of sell it. Doesn't really make sense, but shit happens.

Here is the bike I am going to look at tomorrow.
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/667544815.html

I know its a huge jump up but I think I am mature enough to handle it. Said that he is trying to sell it quick because he wants to get a cruiser as soon as possible. Runs great, only a few scratches.