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Old 12-01-2009, 12:49 PM   #21
askmrjesus
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Originally Posted by tommymac View Post
Ok found that in the manual is on the left side by the ecu. My volt meter does not have a diode tester in it so I would have to rig up abattery with a bulb to test it.

Tom
A "Diode tester" is just the Ohm meter function of "most" meters. The symbol looks like this:

I wouldn't bother with light bulbs. You can get a decent tester for $15.00

JC
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Old 12-01-2009, 12:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by askmrjesus View Post
A "Diode tester" is just the Ohm meter function of "most" meters. The symbol looks like this:

I wouldn't bother with light bulbs. You can get a decent tester for $15.00

JC
Oh ok so I am good then.

Tom
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:32 PM   #23
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Hahaha!!! It all depends on what your definition of "forever" is... for me, it's about 4 years.
I've never had one die shy of 4, sometimes 5 years.
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:38 AM   #24
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Step 3 it is. Charged up the battery overnight and the bike fired right up. it was between12.25 and 13 with the bike off. Went to 12.33 at idle and prety much stayed there, reved it up to 4k and didnt budge, it should be up around 14 something I believe so tom will be ordering yet another voltage regulator today. Turn around is about a week with the guy I deal with so that may be that for the year which mean I will at least get to put more miles on the buell.
Check the stator

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Originally Posted by tommymac View Post
I have the futura shop manual so that should be in there and am 99% sure it is, just too lazy to go look right now

Another guy suggested checking the alternator so I will do that tonight since I need an extra pair of hands. So Iwill hold off till tomorrow before ordering anything.

Its called a stator. And you check it in AC volts. The diode (voltage regulator, also sometimes called a rectifier) converts that AC voltage to DC voltage.

Further, VR's can be tricky. I find the best thing... establish the battery holds a charge. Do the idle test of volts as you did at the battery. If fail, test the AC output of the stator and if it passes then the only thing left is the VR. Process of elimination. I have done it many times this way.
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:50 AM   #25
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Check the stator




Its called a stator. And you check it in AC volts. The diode (voltage regulator, also sometimes called a rectifier) converts that AC voltage to DC voltage.

Further, VR's can be tricky. I find the best thing... establish the battery holds a charge. Do the idle test of volts as you did at the battery. If fail, test the AC output of the stator and if it passes then the only thing left is the VR. Process of elimination. I have done it many times this way.
Thats prety much the direction I am going with all this, I am going to recheck the battery again today to make sure its still holding a charge. The stator I will try to check tonight since I need an extra set of hands to do that, but given the bikes reputation Iam leaning towards the voltage regulator.

A guy on af1 already offered to sell me one off of his old bike that hes parting out, not sure if I will go with that or just buy the aftermarket one.
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:22 PM   #26
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I wonder how many R/R's and stators were ever replaced because the wiring/connectors were bad. Someone changes a R/R by disconnecting and connecting the wires. Then the battery charges. Was the R/R bad or did disconnecting and connecting the wiring fix the problem?

By the way, Aprilia Falco's are known to have problems with the sidestand safety switch, and they aren't the only brand with this problem. And it doesn't matter if the frame is steel or aluminum, the ground connectors always have corrosion.
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