V-Twin FTW - Page 11

OneSickPsycho · 11-25-2008, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyHotWheel

I'll see if I can find the links when I get home. The free mods are Airbox...charging system is cheap, just wires and a fuse...pair valve mod needs some block off plates fabbed...maybe Leon or someone has some or can get some?...fan switch is cheap....and the steering damper is under $20. The sites I listed have everything and parting out a few bikes, take a look around and see what tickles your giblets.

I had trouble finding a good, comprehensive breakdown of the pair valve removal... Links to all would be appreciated...

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyHotWheel

And if ya really want to do a quick, cheap mod...drill out the rivets and remove the baffling in your stock cans, you can even cut them down and paint or coat them. I have seen this done with good success and it looks cool with the engine paints on the shelves today.

I already have Yosh bolt-ons, so no need to hack anything...

G-Rex · 11-25-2008, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyHotWheel

Oh boy...welcome to the dark side. Start with...airbox mod

I'll get burned at the stake for saying this, but....

Be careful with the airbox mod. I know more people who have had trouble with it than not. I haven't done it yet for that reason, but I did find a spare airbox on Ebay to cut up and play with when I get ready.

The TRE is a good mod, as is the PAIR valve removal. If you want to really have a scary ride, change around the sprockets. I tried a -1 in the front and the thing likes to wheelie even more now than it did before.

Also, re: the 520 conversion. Think long and hard about that one. Personally, I wouldn't run a 520 conversion on a liter bike. I've seen the carnage that results. It's not pretty. Think *new motor*.

OneSickPsycho · 11-25-2008, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G-Rex

I'll get burned at the stake for saying this, but....

Be careful with the airbox mod. I know more people who have had trouble with it than not. I haven't done it yet for that reason, but I did find a spare airbox on Ebay to cut up and play with when I get ready.

The TRE is a good mod, as is the PAIR valve removal. If you want to really have a scary ride, change around the sprockets. I tried a -1 in the front and the thing likes to wheelie even more now than it did before.

Also, re: the 520 conversion. Think long and hard about that one. Personally, I wouldn't run a 520 conversion on a liter bike. I've seen the carnage that results. It's not pretty. Think *new motor*.

Motor issues with 520 conversion... I fail to see how...

G-Rex · 11-25-2008, 09:58 AM

Easy. 520 chainsets typically are recommended for 750cc and down motorcycles by the major chain manufacturers. If you put a 520 chain on a liter bike, there's a chance it will never give you trouble. There's also the chance that it will give, sending the chain hurtling through your crankcase at speed. Believe me when I say that holes that big are not repairable with JB Weld.

Sure, racer guys use 520s. However, they also change out their chain and sprockets every race or two.

It's up to you of course, but I've always been of the opinion the weight savings in the chain/sprocket area wasn't enough to make it a chance I was willing to take.

fnfalman · 11-25-2008, 10:29 AM

I've been running 520 chain and sprockets on my Tuono for two years now. It wears out a lot quicker than 525 chain and sprockets but otherwise, I like it a lot better. Faster acceleration.

marko138 · 11-25-2008, 10:32 AM

The absolute MEANEST bike I've ever heard is the Buell XBRR. Insanely loud and sounded like it was fueled by inhaling children.

dReWpY · 11-25-2008, 12:48 PM

if the pair mod is anything like the rc, its worth doing

MikeSP1 · 11-25-2008, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G-Rex

Easy. 520 chainsets typically are recommended for 750cc and down motorcycles by the major chain manufacturers. If you put a 520 chain on a liter bike, there's a chance it will never give you trouble. There's also the chance that it will give, sending the chain hurtling through your crankcase at speed. Believe me when I say that holes that big are not repairable with JB Weld.

Sure, racer guys use 520s. However, they also change out their chain and sprockets every race or two.

It's up to you of course, but I've always been of the opinion the weight savings in the chain/sprocket area wasn't enough to make it a chance I was willing to take.

Not to mention what'll happen to you leg when that SOB comes hurtling forward and literally whips around your ankle as it heads forward to shread apart your motor.

marko138 · 11-25-2008, 03:11 PM

Belt drive FTW.

marko138 · 11-25-2008, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeSP1

Only a fucking Bueller...

What else am I gonna say?

11-25-2008, 09:58 AM	#104
G-Rex Where to next? Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: OK to the C Moto: TL1000R, Hayabusa, R1150RT Posts: 1,333	Easy. 520 chainsets typically are recommended for 750cc and down motorcycles by the major chain manufacturers. If you put a 520 chain on a liter bike, there's a chance it will never give you trouble. There's also the chance that it will give, sending the chain hurtling through your crankcase at speed. Believe me when I say that holes that big are not repairable with JB Weld. Sure, racer guys use 520s. However, they also change out their chain and sprockets every race or two. It's up to you of course, but I've always been of the opinion the weight savings in the chain/sprocket area wasn't enough to make it a chance I was willing to take. __________________

11-25-2008, 10:29 AM	#105
fnfalman Europhile Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SoCal Moto: Aprilia RS125, Aprilia SR50 Factory, Aprilia Tuono, BMW Rockster, KTM 990 Adventure Posts: 1,875	I've been running 520 chain and sprockets on my Tuono for two years now. It wears out a lot quicker than 525 chain and sprockets but otherwise, I like it a lot better. Faster acceleration. __________________ *Cogito Ergo Vroom - I think therefore I ride*