Installing hard wood flooring? - Page 2

ducati_atx · 12-04-2008, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trip

Go to Home Depot early in the morning on a weekday, hire you a crew of Mexicans for $50 and get the happy ending while you watch them do your floor.

Good way to end up with a messed up floor or an expensive re-do... Most day labor types are only manual labor. I wouldnt have them doing a wood floor.

rider76 · 12-04-2008, 07:50 PM

A friend of mine hired some mexicans to cut down at tree in his yard.. bout 40 of them fuckers showed up, had it down and split in 2 hrs.. cost him 100 bucks and a 12 pack.

Trip · 12-04-2008, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducati_atx

Good way to end up with a messed up floor or an expensive re-do... Most day labor types are only manual labor. I wouldnt have them doing a wood floor.

Ya'll must have crappy mexicans, because our fucks get the job done quick and right. Hard working mofos, best brick work in town too.

rider76 · 12-04-2008, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trip

Ya'll must have crappy mexicans, because our fucks get the job done quick and right. Hard working mofos, best brick work in town too.

Yep, I haven't seen anyone but a mexican doing brick work around here in a long time...

DLIT · 12-04-2008, 08:25 PM

ANYWAY (keep it on topic, and Mexicans aren't the topic)

Yeah, I probably mean laminate. Any special cutting techniques or saws I should use? There's an odd-shaped island that I plan to lay some around. Odd meaning it's not just a square or rectangle, it's curved.

Amber Lamps · 12-04-2008, 09:08 PM

Ok I've installed ceramic and Pergo (laminate) and it is super easy! You'll probably end up getting "snap together" flooring and for the most part,you just follow the directions that usually come with it.

Main points;

1. buy approx 10% extra,if you make mistakes you'll have enough to cover for it and the DIY stores will take what you don't use back.

2. keep 1/2 to a full box for repairs. Styles come and go,if something happens you'll want to have replacement pieces handy.

3. make sure you install the foam underlay,if the floor calls for it (trust me). These floors are only "nailed" down on the edges so they can be bouncy/noisey without the underlayment.

4. inspect the current floor after the carpet is removed and make sure that it is reasonably smooth. If it isn't install a sub-floor before the laminate.

5. use a radial arm saw to make the cut pieces and be mindful of the joints and they way they fit together when you cut your boards.

6. leave a small space away from all walls,cabinets,etc. Approx 1/8-1/4 I believe.

7. GET SOME REALLY GOOD KNEEPADS!!! Do not skimp in this area trust me!

8. if you don't finish in one day,cover the new floor in paper to protect it from any nails,screws,etc being dragged across it stuck on shoes.

9. borrow or rent a good nailer and compressor as opposed to buying a cheap set. This will be a one shot deal so don't blow a ton on buying one but a cheap set will drive you fucking nuts!!!

10. trim pieces are your friends,quarter round,kick boards,bull nose,etc will cover the edges so don't drive yourself nuts trying to make it all perfect. BTW this may be a good time to replace the kick boards in that room.

11. the ends of two boards can NEVER line up and I also avoid the brick wall look. Each box comes with boards of several different lengths and I like the more "random" look but to each their own.

12. make sure that you get a "block",a piece of wood to put against the boards to hit with a hammer to knock them into place. NEVER hit the flooring with a hammer,not even gentle taps. There's nothing worse than completing a course and being half thru the next and having a board not fit because you fucked up the joint.

13. briefly inspect every board before you install it to make sure it doesn't have any finish or joint imperfections.

I hope this helps a little...

DLIT · 12-04-2008, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TIGGER

Ok I've installed ceramic and Pergo (laminate) and it is super easy! You'll probably end up getting "snap together" flooring and for the most part,you just follow the directions that usually come with it.

Main points;

1. buy approx 10% extra,if you make mistakes you'll have enough to cover for it and the DIY stores will take what you don't use back.

2. keep 1/2 to a full box for repairs. Styles come and go,if something happens you'll want to have replacement pieces handy.

3. make sure you install the foam underlay,if the floor calls for it (trust me). These floors are only "nailed" down on the edges so they can be bouncy/noisey without the underlayment.

4. inspect the current floor after the carpet is removed and make sure that it is reasonably smooth. If it isn't install a sub-floor before the laminate.

5. use a radial arm saw to make the cut pieces and be mindful of the joints and they way they fit together when you cut your boards.

6. leave a small space away from all walls,cabinets,etc. Approx 1/8-1/4 I believe.

7. GET SOME REALLY GOOD KNEEPADS!!! Do not skimp in this area trust me!

8. if you don't finish in one day,cover the new floor in paper to protect it from any nails,screws,etc being dragged across it stuck on shoes.

9. borrow or rent a good nailer and compressor as opposed to buying a cheap set. This will be a one shot deal so don't blow a ton on buying one but a cheap set will drive you fucking nuts!!!

10. trim pieces are your friends,quarter round,kick boards,bull nose,etc will cover the edges so don't drive yourself nuts trying to make it all perfect. BTW this may be a good time to replace the kick boards in that room.

11. the ends of two boards can NEVER line up and I also avoid the brick wall look. Each box comes with boards of several different lengths and I like the more "random" look but to each their own.

12. make sure that you get a "block",a piece of wood to put against the boards to hit with a hammer to knock them into place. NEVER hit the flooring with a hammer,not even gentle taps. There's nothing worse than completing a course and being half thru the next and having a board not fit because you fucked up the joint.

13. briefly inspect every board before you install it to make sure it doesn't have any finish or joint imperfections.

I hope this helps a little...

A little? This should help a lot! Thanks, bro.

Amber Lamps · 12-04-2008, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLIT

A little? This should help a lot! Thanks, bro.

No problem. Oh and you mentioned an "island" if it is non-plumbed,you may want to remove it,install the floor and then re-install it. Sometimes this is way easier than cutting around it.

BTW if you need advice on;

garage doors,masonry,windows,concrete,roofing,siding,othe r flooring,etc let me know!

Captain Morgan · 12-04-2008, 09:50 PM

www.diynetwork.com

OTB · 12-04-2008, 10:02 PM

Tigger covered it pretty well. The key is the surface you are covering...it must be level. The laminates will crack if there is too much uneveness.

The other issue is water. Formica brand laminate flooring is the only one warrented against water damage, so if you are installing in an area where there may be moisture, spend the bucks and get the good stuff. i installed Pergo in my kitchen a few years back, and the edges of the strips pushed up around the refer. Most folks don't realize they have a condensate pan with evaporator under or behind their refrigerator that keeps the area moist, warm and steamy. I ended up ripping up the Pergo and putting down Formica laminate and have had no further issues....

12-04-2008, 07:50 PM	#12
rider76 Canyon Carver Join Date: May 2008 Location: St Louis Moto: looking for the next ride Posts: 448	A friend of mine hired some mexicans to cut down at tree in his yard.. bout 40 of them fuckers showed up, had it down and split in 2 hrs.. cost him 100 bucks and a 12 pack. __________________ Bitch better have my money

12-04-2008, 08:25 PM	#15
DLIT Clit Commander Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Las Vegas Moto: 2012 Ducati 1199 Panigale S Posts: 4,189	ANYWAY (keep it on topic, and Mexicans aren't the topic) Yeah, I probably mean laminate. Any special cutting techniques or saws I should use? There's an odd-shaped island that I plan to lay some around. Odd meaning it's not just a square or rectangle, it's curved. __________________ Dress for the crash. Not the ride.

12-04-2008, 09:08 PM	#16
Amber Lamps Moto GP Star Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 14,556	Ok I've installed ceramic and Pergo (laminate) and it is super easy! You'll probably end up getting "snap together" flooring and for the most part,you just follow the directions that usually come with it. Main points; 1. buy approx 10% extra,if you make mistakes you'll have enough to cover for it and the DIY stores will take what you don't use back. 2. keep 1/2 to a full box for repairs. Styles come and go,if something happens you'll want to have replacement pieces handy. 3. make sure you install the foam underlay,if the floor calls for it (trust me). These floors are only "nailed" down on the edges so they can be bouncy/noisey without the underlayment. 4. inspect the current floor after the carpet is removed and make sure that it is reasonably smooth. If it isn't install a sub-floor before the laminate. 5. use a radial arm saw to make the cut pieces and be mindful of the joints and they way they fit together when you cut your boards. 6. leave a small space away from all walls,cabinets,etc. Approx 1/8-1/4 I believe. 7. GET SOME REALLY GOOD KNEEPADS!!! Do not skimp in this area trust me! 8. if you don't finish in one day,cover the new floor in paper to protect it from any nails,screws,etc being dragged across it stuck on shoes. 9. borrow or rent a good nailer and compressor as opposed to buying a cheap set. This will be a one shot deal so don't blow a ton on buying one but a cheap set will drive you fucking nuts!!! 10. trim pieces are your friends,quarter round,kick boards,bull nose,etc will cover the edges so don't drive yourself nuts trying to make it all perfect. BTW this may be a good time to replace the kick boards in that room. 11. the ends of two boards can NEVER line up and I also avoid the brick wall look. Each box comes with boards of several different lengths and I like the more "random" look but to each their own. 12. make sure that you get a "block",a piece of wood to put against the boards to hit with a hammer to knock them into place. NEVER hit the flooring with a hammer,not even gentle taps. There's nothing worse than completing a course and being half thru the next and having a board not fit because you fucked up the joint. 13. briefly inspect every board before you install it to make sure it doesn't have any finish or joint imperfections. I hope this helps a little...

12-04-2008, 09:50 PM	#19
Captain Morgan Let's do another U-turn Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Indiana Moto: 2009 V-Strom Posts: 3,816	www.diynetwork.com

12-04-2008, 10:02 PM	#20
OTB The Man Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: CrabTown USA Moto: 00 Bimota DB4 Posts: 823	Tigger covered it pretty well. The key is the surface you are covering...it must be level. The laminates will crack if there is too much uneveness. The other issue is water. Formica brand laminate flooring is the only one warrented against water damage, so if you are installing in an area where there may be moisture, spend the bucks and get the good stuff. i installed Pergo in my kitchen a few years back, and the edges of the strips pushed up around the refer. Most folks don't realize they have a condensate pan with evaporator under or behind their refrigerator that keeps the area moist, warm and steamy. I ended up ripping up the Pergo and putting down Formica laminate and have had no further issues....